Hydroponic Salad
Sally Ward | She/Her
On the corner of Cambridge Terrace and Marjorie Banks there is a building that used to be called ‘The Sandwich’. It was a multi-level nightclub. Now, the space is used to grow sandwich fillings. When you step downstairs into the sunlight-less basement it smells earthy, which is an odd experience at the end of Courtenay Place. It’s also warm in the way that your heat pump is supposed to work. It smells earthy but there’s no soil.
What’s going on in this inner city basement is hydroponic farming. Shoots Microgreens is one of New Zealand’s first urban farms. I visited for a quick tour and to taste leaves.
They grow produce for salads, garnishes, smoothies, and sandwiches (not a closed list). The seeds are germinated in ‘reverse fridges.’ This is a fridge that looks like it used to belong to a dairy and now has been installed with heaters, which is called upcycling. The trays are then put onto computer automated racks and watered on a timer system. Even in a basement, there are microclimates of hot and cold to be managed. It’s a science experiment. It is odd seeing plants grow around whirring computers and LED lights. But that is the nature of it.
‘Sustainability’ is a big word. People will slap it on any which way product to make you dream of the Garden of Eden. So what impressed me about Shoots is that I believe them when they say they’re sustainable. Here’s why:
They supply local businesses and carry out most deliveries by e-bike (see you later, food miles).
The water is recycled.
Indoor growing uses 6 times less land and the plants are grown without soil. Soil degradation is a big concern for the sustainability of farming.
No pesticides—there’s no bugs in the basement.
The greens are grown in biodegradable wool mats
and reusable plastic trays.
If you’ve been out for brunch anywhere in Wellington, you’ve probably had their pea shoots; the spindly little green garnish on top of any eggs benedict that takes itself seriously. Shoots supplies 50+ local cafes and restaurants. Hydroponically farmed produce is a bit more expensive than soil counterparts. What you’re getting for your penny is more sustainable. nutrient-dense and tasty. This is because none of the nutrients contained in the seed get lost in the soil. And because they are sold while they are still growing, you can harvest them yourself at the dinner table like you’re dining at Noma. It does not get fresher.
I tried most of the shoots available—sorrel, lemon balm, radish, purple basil, coriander, and some microgreen mixes. I had never tried sorrel, which belongs to the spinach family. It was fucking delicious. I do not say this lightly about a leaf. It tastes like freshly cut apples. It tastes like health. Salad is something I eat because I have to, leaves are usually best covered in lemon juice and olive oil or aioli. I’d eat sorrel on its own. The lemon balm was another highlight. It is exactly like its name, zesty yet calming. I’d like to get some to make fresh leaf tea.
You can buy trays of Shoots Microgreens at Thorndon New World, Moore Wilson’s and soon, Chaffers New World for about $8 to $10. Or next time you’re somewhere like Prefab or Loretta, say thanks for hydroponic farming.
I did not think salad bits could be so exciting.