Pasifika Student Council
Maison Margiela
The era of digitisation is upon us, and everyone’s racing to get the competitive advantage. Businesses are moving into automation, university is now completely available online. Technology is a tool for global communication and self-expression, as Pacific Islanders know. We’ve dominated Twitter, Tumblr, and TikTok from the get-go. But as we adapt to take ourselves online, businesses and popular culture continue to take from us. And I think we’re owed a few cheques.
From Pia Mia who ripped off J Boog, to Disney for everything, and Paul Gauguin who owes Tahitians all the cheques. The cheque I want to talk about most is owed by the most popular haute couture luxury fashion house, Maison Margiela.
In a very dark and avant-garde Parisian café, Martin Margiela, in a white lab coat, changed contemporary fashion forever. His debut Spring–Summer 1989 collection was particularly distinctive—luxury garments like no one had seen before. He showcased a mix of sewing extremities and masculine-inspired feminine style, moving away from a traditional and wealthy standard of beauty. He sidelined pearls and conservative skirts for what would soon become 90s skuxness, epitomising edginess and grunge-chic. The pieces, models, and materials pushed the boundary of fashion, form, and footwear of the time. They had ripple effects on ideas of wealth and sense of self. To see his influence, all you’ve got to do is walk down Cuba Street.
One of his revolutionary pieces from the show is a long-sleeved sheer shirt, covered in markings imitating Polynesian tattoos. It was dubbed the “Trompe L'oeil Tattoo T-shirt,” an art technique translating to “deceiving the eye.” Don’t believe me? Check it out, it’s on the Met Museum website. If this garment sounds familiar, it’s because it is. The concept was later ‘celebrated’ by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1993, and began its commercialised transformation into a more digestible and appropriate long-sleeved tattoo shirt, by names such as Ed Hardy, Vetements, and Shein. They even make ones for children on Etsy.
A collector of the garment stated in MoMu Magazine: “After the show I chose the 'trompe l’oeil' tattoo T-shirt and sleeves. The transparent weave with dark-blue tattoo motif appealed to me as I had no tattoos. The idea was to give you the chance to wear a tattoo. Even when my skin and body grew old or transformed, the tattoo would remain in shape. Brilliant.” This begs the question: What is the difference between this luxurious conglomerate’s influential début, and Disney’s ‘Maui tattoo sleeve’ merchandise. Spoiler: it’s accountability, forced by the masses, through online petitions and campaigns.
How was all of this revealed? Shout out to @blissfoster on YouTube. A fashion fanatic whose obsession with Maison revealed the Pacific inspiration for Martin Margiela’s culture-shocking début. Offering specific truths like these into public forums enables us to analyse the extent of uncredited and appropriated cultural identities within pop culture, particularly prior to the era of digitisation.
With all its evils and exposure, the internet is a tool at our disposal. For information, spheres of opinions and education, irregardless of borders or curriculums. We can unearth truths hidden by time. Restorative justice starts with courageous wisdom. Everyone wants a competitive advantage. To quote Two Can Play That Game, “If you disagree with that, then you don’t know. But you better ask somebody.”
Run the cheque, Margiela.