Dusty Sunday Markets

Words by Charlotte Smith (she/her)

It was a semi-sunny Sunday morning in Wellington and by some miracle I wasn’t hungover. Having a hankering for a pastry, I mustered the strength to get out of bed. I decided to head down to the markets on Wellington’s waterfront to grab a bite and maybe pick up some groceries at the same time.

The Harbourside Market is a Wellington icon, running every Sunday morning outside Te Papa since 2002. However, 2020 marked the temporary banning of all community gatherings. The market was no exception, shutting down and inevitably falling off many people’s radars. Despite carrying out business again and its immense popularity, the Harbourside Market may be unknown to students who are new to the city or who have never come across it. I hate to admit that after being in the city for almost three years I’d only attended a couple of times myself. But that Sunday, I thought I would give it a genuine go.

My flatmate and I finally found a carpark after battling with hundreds of others and we made our way to the waterfront. Suddenly we were immersed in a bustle of people from all walks of life and food and drink stalls of every kind. I was on a mission to find the perfect almond croissant (the obsession is real) and we found ourselves at Bordeaux Bakery’s stall, purchasing a croissant and a hazelnut pain au chocolat. A taste test of both was necessary for research of course. Both got a 9/10 rating – rare coming from a self-confessed connoisseur. Although I was full after my pastry feast, there were many other stands that still piqued my interest. Fritz’s Weiners, with their mouth-watering looking German sausages in bread; doughnuts from The Little Chilean Kitchen; crispy whitebait fritters from Food for the People; and real fruit ice creams which screamed summer. All these delights sat alongside a beautiful selection of local produce—manuka honey, eggs, and avocados. A feast for the eyes and the stomach.

After wandering this stretch for a while, doing some people watching, and using all my self-restraint to not buy something from every stall, we made our way over to the fruit and vegetable stands. Situated in the car park next to Te Papa, this aspect of the market dates all the way back to the 1920s, when local farmers would come each week to sell their produce in the Blair and Allen Street area. Today, it hosts the produce of many farms in the wider region, and families who travel every Sunday from as far as Levin to sell their fresh fruit and vegetables. The farmers are generous. Tony from Toby Jung Farms runs the Harbourside Market Partnership programme. Nowadays, all the stalls donate some of their products to the Kaibosh Food Rescue Charity after the market is over.

Wandering around, I was overwhelmed as there was just about every fresh product you could imagine. Meal planning might not be your forte, but wandering through the vibrant array of colours and aromas is bound to get you inspired. It’s easy to get over-excited and leave with a few extra items than you intended on coming for. Predicting this, the market sellers provide baskets and reusable bags for ease of shopping. After filling up my basket, I hopped in a line stretching all the way back through the boxes of produce to pay. The long queues speak to the quality and affordability of the food. Those at the counter were friendly and efficient, used to the pressure of serving large crowds. 

I am both a huge foodie and a very broke student. These parts of my identity do not seem to correlate. Contending with the ever-increasing supermarket prices is a constant battle. As much as I want to eat healthy and delicious meals, even when working as many hours as I can on top of studying, I can only afford the bare minimum. Buying cheese—a staple item —has become a treat. A bag of baby spinach, perfect for adding a bit of greenery to your meals, can be an absurd $6 at New World. 

I know many students will relate to these struggles, which is why I think the market offers a solution. A huge bunch of spinach here can cost you just a few dollars. While I was at the market, I bought ingredients for a go-to lunch of mine: roast vegetable salad. A large kumara, carrot, two parsnips, broccoli, avocado, beetroot, and garlic came to just $9. I realised that the market is perfectly suited to those looking to eat well on a budget. It is us students who can reap the benefits of the market—maybe more than anyone else.

It is not only the market’s produce and price which is unmatched, but the atmosphere too. A young girl busked on her guitar, her voice a backdrop to the multitude of chattering voices. I saw friends I hadn’t caught up with in ages. Families were out walking their dogs, couples were hand in hand, strangers were bonding with strangers. The food brings people together and it is this energy which makes the experience so special. 

Yet as great as the vibe is, I understand that for many students it might not be at the top of their weekend to-do list. 90% of Sundays I wake up dusty. On these occasions, the last thing I want to do is get ready, make myself look presentable, and go to a busy and loud market with forced social interaction. I get it. As much as I want to make it a regular routine, it is a struggle. But it doesn’t have to be a mission.

Grab a coffee from a local barista and coordinate it with a walk along the waterfront. Go for lunch and sit down on the grass outside Te Papa and people-watch, maybe visit the museum afterwards. You could get some groceries for your week and tick something off your to-do list. You could chat with some regulars and familiarise yourself with some local businesses. The store holders are all chatty and friendly. While snapping an insta-worthy picture at the vibrant flower stall The Daffadude, the stall holder asked me to tag them in my post. As happy-go-lucky as they seem, it is clear these businesses need our support. They need the students. 

In our post-covid climate, supporting local and independent businesses has never been so important. It’s a relief that the market is up and running again, but stall owners and farmers are still suffering from the long-term effects of numerous lockdowns. The inconsistency of the market may mean a number of people, especially students new to the region, have never heard of it. This is devastating. The market offers an incredible showcase of what the region has to offer. Our attendance at the markets is vital to the stall holders’ lives and can be a great addition to ours. 

For students who are new to Wellington, I can’t imagine a better way to get amongst the local produce and people. The atmosphere was so infectious that I almost didn’t want to leave. After finally dragging myself away, I headed home with a full stomach and an array of fresh goods to pop in the fridge. I was set for the week ahead and the bank account was not broken. I think I might just have to go back!