The Demise of YouTube’s Top Fashion Shows
Words by Alice Brown (she/her)
TW: This piece mentions racism and mental health.
For millions of youth globally, PAQ was the key to the exclusive high-end streetwear scene. But in 2020, our drip feed of fashion content was cut. We were left without an explanation, wondering WTF happened to PAQ? It seems that shitty contracts, neglect of the hosts’ mental health, and racial microaggressions caused the hosts to cancel their own shows at the peak of their careers.
PAQ was a weekly, challenge-led YouTube show that provided young men with fashion knowledge, teaching them to confidently experiment with
self expression. It was hosted by models Danny Lomas and Elias Riadi, musician Dexter Black, and artist Shaquille (Shaq) Keith. The hosts were an established friend group and were scouted by Kyra, a digital entertainment company. The show grew a large following of passionate fans which led to KYRA creating a second show, dedicated to female fashion - NAYVA.
Kyra’s YouTube series bagged deals with the world’s top brands as well as guest appearances from the likes of Billie Eliish, Doja Cat, and Aminé. Tracking to make $10 million in 2019, profit was expected to increase in 2020 with the announcement of 10 new shows. Instead, 2020 began with NAYVA’s cancellation; PAQ followed a few months later. So what the fuck happened?
Shitty Contracts:
A scarcity in creative job opportunities sparked a large power imbalance between the production company and the talent. Contract negotiations
were declined by Kyra. A host even recalled being threatened by replacement if they didn’t agree to the terms and conditions. The situation was made worse by Kyra signing the hosts at young ages: NAYVA hosts Esme and Faith were only 17. Danny and Elias from PAQ were 20.
Mental Health Neglect:
Shaq was required on set the day after his step- father’s passing. Producers refused to listen to him expressing his inability to work. They instead painted him out as the “angry black boy”. During the days that followed, he was told to smile and was once told “stop looking like you want to kill yourself”.
Racial Microaggressions:
Between PAQ and NAYVA, there was only one host who was not a person of colour. NAYVA’s co-
host Angel told VICE that she overheard a casting director say: “We want no white girls. If you’re white, you’re not getting the show.” Instead of allowing hosts to convey their own connections to their culture, Kyra perpetuated stereotypes. In one case, Kyra gave Esme her own taco truck to serve tacos to the guest presenter.
Editors suggested that black presenters shouldn’t be put on thumbnails as it decreases audience interaction. According to VICE, a white creative director referred to a host’s natural hair as a “bad weave”.
Multiple hosts were quick to call Kyra out on its bullshit in the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement. Shaq said, “Kyra TV out here making statements but it’s the same four white bosses that treated me like shit and pushed my mental health into the dirt. How many black people you used to get this platform? How many of them still work for you? I’ll wait.” Ironically, Kyra was making these posts while an email was sitting in their inbox from the hosts’ lawyers. Fans were also quick to jump on board which led to Kyra deleting its Instagram account completely.
The shows have ended but former hosts are still working on their creative endeavours.